Personal field notes

Food & travel

A running list of places worth seeking out—from Piedmontese tables to memorable hotels.

Recommendations

Restaurants (and why)

Italy

  • Canessa (Baratti, LI): Solid seafood, perfect location for a date (a gulf overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea and dominated by a hill topped with a medieval castle)
  • La Ciau del Tornavento (Treiso, CN): Upscale Piemontese fine dining. Spectacular location overlooking the Barbaresco vineyards
  • Trattoria I Bologna (Rocchetta Tanaro, AL): To understand why Piedmont food is so admired. Try the agnolotti
  • Enoteca il Cavallante (Milano): Wide selection, competent staff, delicious bites to go with the wine
  • Pizzeria da Pietrino (Vignole Borbera, AL): My favorite pizza. Try the Micky
  • Agriturismo Colognole (Colognole Rufina, FI): Magnificent view of the Tuscan hills, takes a while to get there but food and wine (Chianti) are worth it
  • Locanda Montin (Venezia): Great, simple, traditional food. Great internal garden, in a quiet area of the city. Kudos to my parents who found this place in 1982
  • Trattoria 4 Leoni (Firenze): A great option in the heart of Florence. Besides the bistecca alla fiorentina, I recommend the fried zucchini blossoms
  • Osteria La Magona (Bolgheri, LI): the next door neighbor of Ornellaia. Superb Tuscan fare. The Bistecca alla fiorentina is a moral obligation

United States

  • The North Pond (Chicago): Brunch, with a seasonal menu. Spectacular location in Lincoln Park
  • Pizzeria Delfina (San Francisco): An electric oven? Yes. And yet, delicious
  • Song ‘E Napule (Manhattan, OG location on Houston and newer space in the UWS): One of the best pizzas outside of the motherland
  • Fette Sau (Brooklyn): Outstanding barbecue. They also have a great selection of beer and American whiskey
  • Marea (Manhattan): If you really need to eat Italian food in NYC. Specialized in seafood, great wine list
  • Villanelle (Manhattan): Seasonal, modern menu; a great ambiance for a date. Try the octopus/curry dish
  • Soogil (Manhattan): Upscale dining, a creative mix of French and Korean food
  • Osteria San Carlo (Manhattan): Piedmontese food outside of Piedmont

Israel

  • Eucaliptus (Jerusalem): Biblical chef Moshe Basson’s restaurant. Try the maklouba
  • Lina (Jerusalem): By far (very, very far) the best hummus I have ever had

Germany

  • Café am Beethovenplatz (Munich): Chopped pork with Knödel, served with Bavarian beer

Thailand

  • Cooking Love (Chiang Mai): Delicious, very casual, but you need a reservation. Best quality/price ratio of my life

Recommendations

Other recommendations

Japan

  • Hotel Mume (Kyoto): Simply put, the kindest, most attentive staff ever encountered

Italy

  • Distilleria Gualco (Silvano d’Orba, AL): Grappa from the lower Piedmont region. My family has been buying their grappa for three generations 
  • Panetteria De Lucca (Novi Ligure, AL): Focaccia novese. The place to get it
  • Tenuta Elena (Cassinelle, AL): great Dolcetto d’Ovada
  • La Bulichella (Suvereto, LI): beautiful estate making delicious wine on the Tuscan coast, has also a restaurant and rooms in the middle of the vineyard